SAN FRANCISCO

Lee Heidhues 12.4.2023

Liz and I just returned from our well documented weeks long trip to Berlin and Frankfurt. We were both felled by a brutal virus sweeping Germany.

We saw few people wearing protective face masks.

Germans were coughing everywhere we went. The manager of the Freddy Lecks Waschsalon told us “60 percent” of the business were out with the flu virus.

The manager at our hotel in Berlin chided us when we talked about being current on our Covid boosters. “Some people collect stamps. Other people collect Covid boosters.”

Now Deutsche Welle is reporting the cautionary words from the German health ministry.

Deutsche Welle 12.4.2023

German Health Minister Karl Lauterbach on Monday said it was important for at-risk individuals to have their coronavirus vaccinations in advance of the Christmas and New Year holidays.

Lauterbach, himself a trained epidemiologist, said the takeup rate of newly adapted boosted shots designed to fight current COVID-19 variants was so far disappointing.

With three weeks to go until Christmas Day, Lauterbach said it was “the optimal time” for people identified as vulnerable to have the COVID-19 shot.

This would allow the vaccine to take full effect before the large social gatherings and travel that often take place at Christmas, he said.

Germany’s Standing Commission on Vaccination recommends an annual booster vaccination for people with an increased risk of a serious course of the disease.

The minister stressed that an infection was not a simple cold and that the virus remained a real threat to people with chronic health issues.

“At the moment the danger posed by COVID is actually being underestimated,” he said.

Lauterbach was speaking after a meeting about the long-term health effects of coronavirus with healthcare, medicine and science representatives.

 “The problem of Long COVID has not yet been solved,” said Lauterbach.

There had been an estimated 1,700 new infections per 100,000 people in seven days, Lauterbach revealed.

The updated coronavirus vaccine is specially adapted to the Omicron XBB.1.5 subvariant.

Nicknamed the Kraken, the subvariant became prevalent earlier this year and caught virologists’ attention because it contains more mutations to evade immunity than other variants seen so far.

https://www.dw.com/en/germany-get-covid-shots-for-christmas-minister-urges/a-67631576

Top photo: Liz and Lee in Berlin. Maskless but at least thoroughly vaccinated.

SOMEWHERE OVER NORTH AMERICA

Lee Heidhues 12.3.2023

We are finally on our way to San Francisco after a generally disastrous trip to Berlin and Frankfurt.

An event of kindness salvaged the final hours in 🇩🇪 Germany when we finally boarded United flight 59. When we reached our seats a kind young Italian woman offered Liz her seat in the upscale Premier Plus section. Giving her more space to rest her injured Achilles tendon.

This fortuitous event was something we needed.

Our now concluded Germany experience was made incredibly difficult by the Achilles tendon injury Liz suffered on the Deutsche Bahn. Liz heavy luggage and the lack of proper egress was the proximate cause.

Coming atop the virus we both contracted in Berlin, Liz injury was the brutal punctuation mark.

The  bad situation was made only worse during our trip to the Frankfurt airport earlier today.

An unconscionable lack of service by our taxi driver. He dropped us off at the wrong terminal. Over a mile from the United terminal.  Liz was forced to walk and take a shuttle. Further exacerbating her injury.

We finally reached the United Airlines check in desk. And were assisted by a very kind agent. Who told us her own story of tearing her Achilles tendon while hiking in Switzerland.

We finally reached our gate after going through German Customs, airport security and taking a long walk. Liz in pain every step of the way.

Regrettably, our problems and Liz suffering continued. The actual boarding of our flight was an absurdity. Rather than walk directly into the plane Liz was forced to walk down a steep flight of stairs. Assisted by a kind Mexican national who told us his own travel horror stories.

We were then packed into yet another shuttle and driven to our plane. There was a huge crowd.  Fortunately a German cop took notice of Liz’ plight. He cleared the stairway and walked Liz into the plane.

And her fortuitous encounter with the kind Italian.

The plane, totally packed, left 90 minutes late.

We are now closing in on the destination.

San Francisco International Airport.

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

Lee Heidhues 12.2.2023

Our experience in Germany 🇩🇪 is coming to its conclusion on a cold dreary early December afternoon in Frankfurt. Looking out at the skyline from our redoubt in the Willy Hotel on Neue Mainser Strasse just yards from the Opera House

Our nearly month long time in Germany has provided us with a snapshot of the cultural change sweeping the country. We met with and were treated kindly by many emigres. Turks. Persians. Asians. Italians. Africans. These new arrivals have transformed Germany 🇩🇪 And for the better.

Despite this immersion in the new multi cultural Germany, our health travails in Germany 🇩🇪 continue as Liz missive to a friend in San Francisco recounts.

Rather than experiencing the Museums and sites of Berlin and Frankfurt we have become immersed in the German healthcare maze.

We have had to jettison luggage prior to our return to San Francisco. Necessitating trips to the Deutsche Post in Berlin and Frankfurt.  Shipping 45 pounds home to avoid schlepping our belongings through the airports. And leaving one piece of luggage behind.

We were both laid low by a virulent virus sweeping Berlin. 

We arrived in Frankfurt. Liz suffered a debilitating ankle injury. Resulting in three visits to a clinic.  Lab work and diagnosis requiring immediate treatment upon our return after the upcoming arduous 11 hour flight.

The kindly and always attentive manager, Charlie, at the Willy Hotel has gone above and beyond in providing customer service. When we told him about Liz debilitating ankle injury he found a vacuum cleaner hose to use as a make shift cane.

We did have some unique moments in Frankfurt. Having seen few Asian folks in Berlin we felt more at home in Frankfurt. Staying in the Willy Hotel. Managed and staffed by Chinese emigres. Eating dinner several times at a Asian Fusion restaurant. I told the server it was very reassuring to be around people we feel most comfortable.

Top photo. The European Union insignia shines in the Frankfurt night as omnipresent cyclists pedal by.

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

Lee Heidhues 11.30.2023

I am in Germany. The country where Henry Kissinger was born 100 years ago. Whose Jewish family fled Nazi Germany 🇩🇪 in 1938.

What makes Kissinger’s political life so disturbing. His manic single-minded focus to American power dominance.

The destruction of neutral Cambodia in 1970 which led to genocidal Khmer Rouge regime

Kissinger’s destruction of the democratic Socialist Salvador Allende. Ushered in the 17 year dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet. A reign of terror and prosecution of political foes.

Mainstream media for American capitalist predominance notwithstanding. This is why the obituaries are not universal in lauding Kissinger as a great man.

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/live/2023/nov/30/henry-kissinger-dies-tribute-world-leader-diplomat-latest-updates?CMP=Share_AndroidApp_Other

Top photo: Henry Kissinger under siege by Code Pink protesters at hearing in Washington DC

BERLIN, GERMANY

Lee Heidhues 11.25.2023

It’s a 36° dreary rainy day when the blogger trekked to 17 JuniStrasse in the center of Tiergarten Park by the Victory Column to check out the environmental group Letzte Generation protest.

A sizable crowd braved the elements to voice its support for climate change

The group is controversial in Germany 🇩🇪 for its militant street actions protesting the ongoing prevalence of  fossil fuels in this auto fueled nation. The headline (posted below) from German tabloid BILD is typical.

The blogger knew of this event before leaving San Francisco and vowed to attend.

His blog mate was recovering from a Virus and made the prudent decision. She sought refuge in a Moabit Cafe for a warm meal and conversation with the barista.

Following is a montage of the Letzte Generation climate protest. A well attended event watched over by a large number of Berlin Polizei.

BERLIN, GERMANY

Liz and Lee Heidhues 11.24 2023

An unforgettable day in the Friedrichshain district.

Watching folks eat, drink, and get down at the historically themed medieval Weichnachtsmarkt.

With hand-operated attractions like a Ferris Wheel and a wooden carousel for the children.

Where adults can purchase unique handmade works from blacksmiths, carpenters, and weavers.

Christmas Markets pop up all over Berlin and other German cities around Christmas times.

All varieties of families from diverse backgrounds gather together at these outdoor markets, to enjoy the food, mulled wines, and traditions of the wintry German Christmas.

There is nothing comparable in San Francisco’s often balmy Christmas season.

Top photo: The Christmas Market merry go round.

BERLIN, GERMANY

Lee Heidhues  11.23.2023

We have been two weeks in Moabit and had daily exposure to this multi cultural hip working class neighborhood.

Following are some photos of the life.

BERLIN, GERMANY

November 23, 2023

A visit to the doctor in Berlin is a unique experience for the traveler from San Francisco.

One of us caught a ‘bug’. Being exposed to the 30° temperatures and surrounded by many coughing locals.

It’s no surprise one of us would succumb to the elements.

Fortunately we are partaking in our third trip to Berlin and are somewhat familiar with the City and its customs.

It helps that Liz speaks some German.

The manager at the Hotel Tiergarten assisted me in finding a nearby medical clinic. It is across the street from the Berlin criminal court house. A 10 minute walk through Kleiner Tiergarten Park.

When I explained to the hotel manager we are up to date on our Covid booster shots she laughed and said, “Some people collect stamps. Others collect covid shots.”

When we arrived just past 9AM the waiting area was full of local Berliners. Some coughing. Others wearing face masks.

The clinic staff was initially reluctant to take an American patient. We, of course, do not have German health insurance. We engaged staff and after providing passport identification were logged into the system.

The person who needed evaluation was seen immediately.

The traveler with the ‘bug’ was seen by the equivalent of an American doctor. Except for one major distinction. The title on the doctor’s name badge was “Frau.”

Even though she had studied eight years, the prestige of being called “Doctor” was denied her.

To be awarded the more prestigious title of “Dr.” the American patient’s provider needed to have completed extensive research.

Despite the fact she had spent extensive time in the critical care Emergency Room the title of “Dr.” remains out of reach.

The “Frau” conducted a thorough examination and provided her analysis.

A run of the mill virus. A couple of prescriptions were written up by the “Frau” and we were out the door on a windy rainy Thanksgiving day in Moabit Berlin.

The entire visit took only one hour.

Surprisingly the appointment cost less than $25.00.

We were impressed by the effectiveness and kindness of the clinic staff and departed feeling reassured.

We then retired to a neighborhood Cafe for a caffe latte.

BERLIN, GERMANY

Liz and Lee Heidhues

November 23, 2023

We were stopped dead in our tracks when we walked into a cavernous room at the Berlinische Galerie and saw four animal carcasses splayed across the floor.

Imagine the adrenaline rush.

Nasan Tur has created a very sobering exhibit titled HUNTED.

Why does mankind kill for sport?

It shows the agony of the animals. The helplessness.

What stops animals from killing humans while humans have willfully killed animals for centuries worldwide?

Nasan Tur interviewed several German forestmeisters whose job was to kill animals. Deer. Foxes. Boar. Predator birds.

Ask five people why they kill animals. The listener will hear five different answers.

All the hunters except one explained and rationalized their professional addiction to the HUNTED.

For many hunters it is a stress relief. It allows the predatory hunters to share a sense of camaraderie and shared values in the HUNTED.

The hunters essential pastime is killing unsuspecting animals. The hunters wait sometimes for hours to slaughter their unsuspecting prey.

The hunters in the HUNTED consider it an enjoyable hobby.

How can anyone who kills an unsuspecting fawn enjoy the HUNTED?

One forestmeister was unable to engage in the kill. He was ridiculed and vilified by his comrades.

The exercise of killing and rationales for its legitimacy requires mental gymnastics and torturous logic. How much violence do we harbor within us. How is it triggered.

We had gone to the Berlinische Galerie to tour the feature exhibit. Room after room of Edvard Munch artwork. Which was literally standing room only. The HUNTED room was almost totally ignored.

The bodies of the lifeless carcasses were out of place in the minds of the predominately baby boomers viewing Edvard Munch.

It’s fair to presume a number of Edvard Munch visitors have, and still do, participate in The HUNTED.

BERLIN, GERMANY

Liz and Lee Heidhues 11.21.2023

Tomorrow is the 60th anniversary of the shocking assassination of President John F. Kennedy in Dallas, Texas as he rode in an open limousine at 12:30pm.

I was a high school junior that day and had just completed a driver training class. One of my schoolmates was running through the Tamalpais High parking lot yelling, “Kennedy’s been shot!!!”

My life changed forever that morning.

60 years later we’re in Berlin. A place which is inextricably tied to JFK’s 1000 days presidency. January 20, 1961 – November 22, 1963.

The Kennedy presidency took place during the height of the Cold War between the United States and Russia. Ground Zero in this struggle was the divided city of Berlin. America, Britain, and France controlled West Berlin. The Russians controlled East Berlin.

On August 13, 1961 the Russians cutoff their side of Berlin and began construction of The Wall. It stood as the penultimate symbol of the intractable Cold War for 28 years. In late 1989 the thawing of American-Russian hostility saw the demolition of The Wall and the reunification of Berlin.

The Wall may be physically gone. But its sad, bitter memories live on forever in Germany.

Today we visited a memorial to The Wall and thought seriously about the psychological and physical terror it rained on the People of Berlin for nearly 30 years.

It is a sobering experience. Made more impactful because we are in Berlin on the sad anniversary of John Kennedy’s assassination.

Photos – Liz and Lee Heidhues